Beautiful bays, killer whale sharks and sperm (whales)





 Bremer Bay turns out to be a real treasure. It is 60 kms off the main highway and is a quiet, stunning beach side township. We all admit that it has an amazing feel, so we explore the estuaries and beaches and all the views. The sands are still white, not unlike Espérance further up the coast.
The lush green farmland is quite in contrast to the dry land we have witnessed over the past few weeks. Bremer Bay Caravan Park is the first well lawned park we have stayed in, with the exception to Cummins, back in SA.

Up bright and early the next day to be ready at the main jetty to meet the Naturaliste Charters boat that is taking me for the viewing of the whales. Julz, Bet and Ron all decide to not participate, which is fine, and they allow me to go off on a day adventure, alone.

The boat is 55 foot long and skippered by an ex NZ guy, Matt. The crew of three are friendly and we are joined by a family of four, from Perth, a couple from NZ and a couple from South Australia. We head out at 7.30am towards the Bremer Canyon. This is an Eco hot spot that was found off the coast, not too long ago, that is about 70 kms out to sea, that is a stunningly beautiful, remote habitat with marine wildlife: whaler sharks, sperm whales, giant squid, masses of sea birds and the largest known group of killer whales (Orcas) in the Southern Hemisphere.

They suspect that this wildlife wonderland is created by a massive hydrocarbon pocket under the seabed, which fuses with the surrounding water to create an ice-like reef known as methane hydrate. This in turn sparks a whole food chain involving crustaceans releasing billions of nutrient-rich eggs into the desolate waters.

So we head out to the open ocean, remembering to take my ginger calming tablet and a sea sickness tablet for good measure. We have a fruity morning tea and start to look out for any sign of wildlife. Albatross come into view and a whole bunch of sea birds.

They say this is a good sign, so we keep our eyes open for any killer whales activity.

Another hour later, way out on the horizon, one of the crew has spotted a stream of grey mist. We speed over to discover as close jump of a sperm whale on the top of the water. He (yes they can tell by the side they blow water out from) only stays a few minutes and then, with tale in the air, dives downwards, which we armed told can last up to an hour and a half. We look further and see another blowing water mist and off we go again. After seeing three sperm whales, which are quite rare to see, we look for the Orcas. The boat goes still and we bob around in two metre swells. A few of the guests start downstairs to be sick. The remainder of us, eat lunch and keep looking for wildlife.   

It turned out that we are at the tale end of the season for killer whales. None show, after three hours, we head back to shore. Not disappointed, as the day is stunning, to be out on the ocean and we get to see wild seal lions on a little island heading back to shore. I highly recommend this tour to anyone venturing to this part of Australia.

We arrive back about 3 in the arvo and hook up with Julz, Ron and Bet and Gypsy.
They have explored the whole of Bremer Bay and rave about its beauty. This is, b y far, the nicest little beach town we have uncovered so far on our adventure.

We pack up the next day and head off to our next stop, Albany. Albany is a late port city, 420km SE of Perth, the state capital. Albany, with a population of 30,000 is the oldest permanently settled town in Western Australia, pre dating Perth and Fremantle by over two years. We are off today to explore Albany…….along with Denmark, approximately 50 kms drive from Albany.   


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